To the best of my knowledge, these are the most up to date speed climbing records for on the Big Stone, Yosemite's incomparable El Capitan! Please correct me if I'm wrong or out of date. Naturally, I give a little extra attention to the greatest rock climbing route in the world.
To the best of my knowledge, these are the most up to date speed climbing records for on the Big Stone, Yosemite's incomparable El Capitan! The routes are arranged west to east, that is from the West Face to the East Buttress. Naturally, I give a little extra attention to the greatest rock climbing route in the world. I have differentiated current records, climbs that were records at the time of the climb, and solo climbs. I've also noticed the first one-day ascent. Check out the legend on the right for a full explanation.
If you think one of these records is wrong, let me know. If you break a record, let us know and post your news in the forum. If you don't break a record, post the details of your climb in the forum anyway.
Two rock climbers set a new speed record ascending El Capitan in Yosemite National Park early Wednesday, achieving the feat in just under two hours. Documentary photographer Austian Siadak said.
- May 31, 2018 The world’s most famous speed-climbing record was broken Wednesday, this time by two of Yosemite’s most illustrious climbers who teamed up to scale the 3,000-foot prow of El Capitan in a little.
- May 30, 2018 This record beats Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds’ time of 2:19:44 from Oct. Yosemite’s El Capitan is also seen as the classic test piece for speed climbing. It’s steep, exposed, and extremely strenuous pitch is 2,900 feet high and has 31 pitches. Most climbing parties take several days to scale the route.
Mr Midwest
7:40 Jacqueline Florine, Steve Schneider and Hans Florine. July 2001
~2nd -13:39 Chandlee Harrell and Peter Coward. July 31st, 1999
~3rd - 21:00 Dave Bengston, Al Swanson, and Steve Gerberding. April 1996 - FOD
Mirage
20:02 Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston, and Al Swanson. 1995
West Face
1:56:16 Timmy O'Neill and Hans Florine.November 1999
5:56 Lisa Coleman-Puhvel and Hans Florine. October 1998, (Fastest Female/Male ascent)
8:16 Hans Florine - solo. June 2000 (two El Cap routes in a day solo)
~3rd -2:31 Greg Murphy and Hans Florine. 1996
~2nd -2:20 Peter Croft and Dave Shultz. 1992?
~4th -5:30 John Middendorf and Dave Shultz. 1984
Realm of the Flying Monkeys
~9:59 Peter Coward and Hans Florine. July 1999
~2nd -12:37 Chandlee Harrell and Greg Murphy. September 2000 - FOD
~3rd -30+-?Pete Takeda and Tucker Tech. 96?
Lurking Fear
3:04:54 Nick Fowler and Yuji Hirayama. May 2003
9:20 Hans Florine, solo, June 2000 (two El Cap routes in a day solo)
22:22 Lorna Illingworh and Holly Beck. July 2007 (First Female One Day)
12:00 Vera Schulte-Pelkum and Erik Roed. June 2002. (Female/Male team)
~2nd - 4:27 Cedar Wright and Jason Singer. June 2001
~3rd - 5:17 Tim O'Neill and Miles Smart. Sept 10th 99 (onsight, stuck rope on the last 5.10 pitch, they soloed off stopped the watch, then they went back down to get the rope)
~4th- 5:22 Steve Schneider and Hans Florine. April 2000
~5th -7:15 Dean Potter and Jose Pereyra September 1998
~6th -8:52 Steve Schneider and Hans Florine. October 1994 ( part of El Cap trifecta in a day)
~7th -11:17 Renan Ozturk and Nick Martin. May 2003
~15th? -less than 24 - Scott Stowe and Fosberg. 1990s? - FOD
~2nd solo -13:13 Chris McNamara. 1998?
~2nd Female/Male team -14:18 Jacqueline Florine and Hans Florine. June 2001
West Buttress
13:42 Chandlee Harrell and Hans Florine. July 2000
20:08 Kevin Thaw - solo 9/96, - FOD
~ 2nd -18:01 Steve Schneider &Jeff Schoen. 1998 - FOD
~ 3rd - 26+ ? Galen Rowell, Conrad Anker, and Chris McNamara. 1997?
For Your Eyes Only (aka Octopussy)
27:00 Steve Gerberding, John Harpole & Dave Bengston. May 1993
Never Never Land
16:00:02 Chris McNamara and Ammon McNeeley. August 2004
Aquarian Wall
23+ - Greg Murphy, Peter Coward, and Steve Schneider, - FOD
~2nd - 29 Aischan Rupp and Rolando Garibotti 1994
~3rd? - 51:30 Dan Dunkle and Hans Florine. November 2001
Horse Chute
20hh:39 - Chris McNamara and Ammon McNeeley. October 8th 2004. - FOD
~2nd - 27:07 Mark Deger, Kevin Thaw & Steve Schneider 1996?
~3rd - 39:00 Peter Coward, Greg Murphy, and Chandlee Harrell. August 98
Dihedral Wall
14:06 - Steve Gerberding and Hans Florine. September 2002 (hammerless). - FOD
22:04 - Mike Ousley and Chris McNamara, July 1999 (Lurking Fear finish)
~2nd -27:38 Mark Deger & Steve Schneider. 95?
Excalibur
39:01 - Steve Schneider, Willie Benegas, and Andres Zeger. 1998
Salathe Wall
6:32 - Jim Herson and Chandlee Harrell. July 1999 (free variation on pitch 24 and 32)
7:33 - Dean Potter and Jose Pereyra. September 1998
27? - Sue McDevitt and Nancy Feagin. June 1998
23? -Steve Schneider - solo. 1992
12:30 - Nancy Feagin and Hans Florine. 1992 (Fastest Female/Male ascent)
16? - Tommy Caldwell, redpoints/ - Free climbs in a day.
35 -Yuji Hirayama. September 1997 (FFA -Fastest Free ascent, onsight!)
~2nd -7:58 Greg Murphy and Hans Florine. July 1999
~3rd - 8:02 Steve Schneider and Hans Florine. September 1998
~4th -8:10 Jim Herson and Chandlee Harrell. July 99
~5th -8:49 Dean Potter and Jose Perada. September 1998
~6th -8:56 Andres Puhvel and Hans Florine. 1991
~7th - 9:01 Rolando Garibotti and Aischan Rupp. 1993
~8th -9:53 Peter Coward and Hans Florine. 1994
~20th? - 14:01 Steve Schneider and Rick Cashner. 1989? FOD (without fixing)
Son of Heart
29:24 Peter Coward, Steve Schneider, and Hans Florine. September 1993
Sunkist
19:24 Mark Melvin, Steve Schneider, and Hans Florine. July 99. - FOD
~2nd - 19:58 Ammon McNeeley and Brian McCray. August 2004
~3rd - 26:00 Aischan Rupp & Rolando Garibotti. 95/6?
~4th - 28? Warren Hollinger, Miles Smart, and Dean Potter. 99?
Magic Mushroom
55:15 Kevin Jamarillo, Ammon McNeeley, and Ivo Ninov. July 2005
Flight of the Albatross
24:04 Conrad Anker, Steve Gerberding & Dave Bengston. Early 90s
14:50 Kelly Simard, Brian McCray, and Hans Florine. July 2001.(did free blast then variation on first 6 pitches)
The Shield
10:58! Cedar Wright and Chris McNamara. August 1999
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4 days John Middendorf. 1984(solo)
~2nd -18:05 Greg Murphy and Hans Florine. July 1996
~3rd -18:15 Rolando Garibotti and Adam Wainwright. 1994
~4th - 18:25 Mike Carvile and Hans Florine. 1995
~5th - 23:09 - Kevin Fosburg & Rick Lovlace - 1991 FOD
~6th - 32:40 Renan Ozturk, Wally Barker, and Nick Martino. May 2003
~4 days? Roxana Brock and Brian McCray. July 1996( Fastest Female/Male ascent)
Muir Wall
19:56 Nils Davis and Brian McCray. June 2001 Epson l210 driver for mac yosemite.
~23:29 Chris McNamara and Hans Florine. 1996 - FOD
Triple Direct
6:27 Chris MacNamara and Hans Florine. December 2005
~8:20 Adam Wainwright and Rolo Garbotti 1994?
Grape Race
~13:25 Chris McNamara and Jose Pereyra. June 1999
~2nd - 23:? Steve Schneider and ?
~3rd -35:00 Dave Bengston, Steve Gerberding & Josh Hedling, 1992 (with a bivy)
*** The Nose ***
- NIAD list (people who have done the Nose In A Day)
Records
2:43:33 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine. July 2008
12:15 Heidi Wertz and Vera Shulte-Pelcum. June 2004
4 days & 7 hours 43 minutes Jacqueline Florine - solo. June 2002
11:41 Hans Florine - solo. July 2005 report
11:00 Tommy Caldwell. October 2005 (FFMA Fastest Free Male Ascent)
23:+? Lynn Hill. 1994 (FFFA - Fastest Free Female Ascent)
8:40 Lynn Hill and Hans Florine. July 1992(Fastest Female/Male ascent)
2nd All Female Team -16:30 Abby Watkins and Vera Wong. 1996
3rd All Female Team - 17:40 Nancy Feagin and Sue McDevitt. June 1992
2nd - 3:14 Thomas and Alexander Huber. June 2006 Will the Huber Brothers get the record?!?!? see the consensus
3rd - 3:24:04 Timmy ONeill and Dean Potter. November 2001
4th - 3:27:05 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine. September 2002
5th - 3:57:27 Jim Herson and Hans Florine. October 2001
6th - 3:59:35 Timmy ONeill and Dean Potter. October 2001
7th - 4:22 Peter Croft and Hans Florine. June 1992
8th -4:31 Tommy Caldwell and Hans Florine. September 2001
9th -4:48 Dave Shultz and Peter Croft. 1991
10th -5:36 Chris McNamara and Mark Melvin. November 2005
11th -5:37 Greg Murphy and Hans Florine. 1997
12th -5:40 Jason 'Singer' Smith and Tim O Neill. October 1999
13th - 5:42 Steve Schneider and Hans Florine. 1994
14th - 5:46 Steve Schneider and Hans Florine. May 2000
15th - 5:48 Rolando Garibotti and Rob Slater. 1995
16th -5:50? Dave Shultz and Peter Croft. ( Nose/Salathe day) 1991
17th - 6:01 Kevin Thaw and Hans Florine. 92
18th -6:03 Andres Puhvel and Hans Florine. 91
19th -6:12? Dave Shultz and Peter Croft. 90
20th - 6:17 Andres Puhvel and Hans Florine. 91
21st -6:40 Mark Melvin and Chris McNamara. November 2005
22nd - 6:40 Peter Croft and Dave Shultz. 90
23rd - 7:02 Jason Singer and Leo Houlding. May 2001
24th - 7:40 Chandlee Harrel and Hans Florine. June 99
25th - 8:03 Mark Melvin and Hans Florine. Novmeber 95
26th - 8:05 Steve Schneider and Hans Florine. May 90
27th - 9:10? Wolfgang and Xavier? late 1980s
28th - 9:17 John Bachar and Peter Croft. June 1986
~2nd solo -12:59 Dean Potter - solo. July 1999 ( EC and HD in a day)
~3rd solo -13:41 Hans Florine. July 28th 99. ( HD and EC in a day- day)
~4th solo -14:11 Hans. August 93
~5th solo - 23:00 Steve Schneider. 1990? - FOD
~6th solo - 26? Doug Englekirk. 1990
~2nd Female/male - 9:52 Nancy Feagin and Hans Florine. 1993 (20 classics in 20 days)
~3rd Female/male - 12:00 Vera Schulte-Pelkum and Erik Roed. June 2002
Tribal Rite
23:33 Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe & Dave Bengston. March 1994 - FOD
New Dawn
23:50 Benegas Bros. mid 1990s - FOD
Wall of Early Morning Light
23:43 Ammon McNeeley and Brian McCray. September 2004 - FOD
~2nd 25:05 Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston & Scott Stowe. September 1991
~3rd -27? Brian McCray and Hans Florine. August 2004
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Mescalito
23:28 Dean Potter, Jose Pereyra, and Russ Mitrovich. October 1998 - FOD
~2nd -28:00 Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston & Scott Stowe. June 1992
~3rd -32:55 Chandlee Harrell, Greg Murphy, and Hans Florine 1996
~4th - 4 days Alex Lowe and John Middendorf. (hockey knife start). 1984
The Reticent Wall
34:57 Ivo Ninov, Ammon McNeely & Dean Potter. July 2006
Pacific Ocean Wall
33:02 Ammon McNeeley and Ivo Ninov. May 2004
~2nd -36:24 Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe, Dave Bengston. September 1995
Wyoming Sheep Ranch
29:31 Eric George, Russell Metrovich, and Sean 'Stanley' Leary. October 99
North America Wall
9:36 Tim O'Neill and Miles Smart. Sept 14th 99
~2nd -21:48 Mark Melvin, Conrad Anker, and Hans Florine. 1996 - FOD
~3rd -24:05 Scott Stowe and Rick Lovelace. October 1990
~3rd - 30:15 Mike Schaefer and BlairWilliams. May 99
New Jersey Turnpike
14:00:02 Ammon McNeely and Brian McCray. September 2002
~2nd -16:09 Heather Baer, Hans Florine, and Steve Schneider. July 2001 - FOD
~3rd -24:48 Scott Stowe, Steve Gerberding & Dave Bengston. April 1997
Atlantic Ocean Wall
23:38 Ammon McNeely and Brian McCray, August 2004
~2nd - 50 or so Willie and Damian Benegas, Russ Metrovich, and someone else. 1995?
Native son
Ivo Ninov & Ammon McNeely. May 2006 FOD
25:06 Sean 'Stanley' Leary, Russell Metrovich, and Eric George. October 99
12 days - Pete Zabrok 'non-speed ascent'
Iron Hawk
30:42 Cedar Wright and Ammon McNeely. May 2004
~2nd - 33:50 Dave Bengston, Scott Stowe & Steve Gerberding. May 1996
Scorched Earth
36:00? Scott Vinsic, Dan Oppenhiem & Aaron Jones - July, 2005 (variation on 10th pitch)
Aurora
23:55 Miles Smart and Brian McCray. July 1998 - FOD
~2nd - 48:00 Mike Schaefer, Andrew Liner, and Ryan Spence. October 99
Tangerine Trip
10:24 Cedar Wright and Ammon McNeely. July 2002
15:53 Nick Fowler, solo. October 2002 (first one-day onsight solo of any El Cap route)
~2nd - 11:56 Miles Smart & Dean Potter, March 99
~3rd - 13:24 Steve Schneider and Hans Florine. October 2000
~4th -18:34 Steve Gerberding, Jay Smith & Scott Stowe. August 1991 - FOD
Virginia
17:24 Ivo Ninov, Gabe and Ammon McNeeley. July 2004
23+? Jamie Mundo, Erik Sloane and Dave Bainbridge . May 2005 - FOD
Lost in America
18:04 Brian McCray and Ammon McNeeley. August 2004
~2nd -21:31 Eric George, Russell Mitrovich, and Leo Houlding. October 99 - FOD
~3rd -24:47 Kevin Thaw, Mark Synnott, and Chris McNamara. May 97
~4th -26:55 Dave Bengston and Scott Stowe. July 1996
Kaos
27:50 Jim Haden, Sean Leary, Eric George. December 99
Zenyatta Mondatta
22:56 Kevin Jamarillo, Ivo Ninov, and Ammon McNeely. July 2005, - FOD
70:01 or 38:45? Willie Benegas - solo 1997
~2nd -26:25 Brian McCray and Jose Pereyra. June 2001
~3rd -26:37 Steve Gerberding Rick Lovelace & Dave Bengston. March 1994
~4th -28:54 Wayne Willoughby, Hans Florine, and Nick Fowler. July 2002
Shortest Straw
17:52 Russ Metrovich, Eric George, and Brett Dodds. sept 99, - FOD
~2nd - 24:43 Scott Stowe, Dave Bengston & Steve Gerberding. June 1995
Zodiac
2:32 Alex and Thomas Huber. June 2003
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11:18 Nick Fowler. November 2002, solo
3 days(one night) YOUNGEST EL CAP TEAM, Chris and Morgan McNamara, July 1995
~2nd - 2:32 Alex and Thomas Huber. June 2003
~3rd - 3:06 Thomas and Alex Huber. June 2003 ES?
~4th - 4:06 Thomas and Alex Huber. June 2003 ES?
~5th - 5:57 Nick Fowler and Ammon McNeely. November 2002 ES
~6th -7:04 Chris McNamara & Miles Smart. March 1999 ES
~7th - 8:42 Cedar Wright and Ammon McNeely. fall 98 ES
~8th - 8:47 Russ Metrovich and Jose Pereyra. October1998 ES
~9th -10:57 Peter Coward and Hans Florine. July 1995
~10th -14:53 Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston & Scott Stowe. September 1990
~11th - 18:30 Mike Carville and Kevin Brown. early 1990s.
~12th - under 24 Rick Cashner, Werner Braun, and Fosberg. 1989 - FOD
Notable*- 6:15 Alex Huber and Ammon McNeely. June 2002 (*used fixed line for first pitch)
~2nd -12:00 Russ Mitrovich. solo. August 1999
~9:15 Miles Smart. solo. September 1999(used fixed line on first pitches and received belay in grey circle) ES
~17:52 Steve Gerberding - 4th fastest solo. October 1993 - FOD
Plastic Surgery Disaster
21:37 Brian McCray and Ammon McNeely. June 2001, - FOD
Get Whacked
12:49 Ammon McNeely and Brian McCray. June 2001
Lunar Eclipse
19:58 Ammon McNeely, Jose Pererya, and Chongo. June 2001
~2nd - 23:24 Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe & Dave Bengston. August 1996. - FOD
~3rd - 41:03 James Adams and Nick Fowler. August 2002
Born Under a Bad Sign
22:22 Chris Van Luevan, Erik Waldo Walden, and Ammon McNeely. October 2002 - FOD
Bad Seed
19:12 Wayne Wiloughby, Brian McCray, and Hans Florine. September 1998. FIRST ONE DAY ASCENT OF EL CAPITAN by a handicap person (Wayne has polio)
~2nd 19:50 Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston & Scott Stowe . October 1995 - FOD
Eagles way
9:08 Brian McCray and Ammon McNeeley. August 2004
19:05 Roxana Brock and Brian McCray. August 1998( Fastest Female/Male ascent)
23:51 Alek Berg. solo, July 2005
~2nd -10:50 Cedar Wright, Tim Oneil, and Miles Smart. August 1999(rapped last pitch and cleaned pins after stopping clock)
~3rd- 14:27 Peter Coward, Steve Schneider, and Hans Florine. July 1997
~4th- 19:38 Steve Gerberding, Johnson, and Melkonian. July 1990 - FOD
~5th - 26:00 Micah Dash, Josh Thomson, Lucho Riveria. September 2001
~2nd - 51:14 Ammon McNeely, solo. August 2000 details
Pressure Cooker
23:41 Ammon McNeeley and Ivo Ninov;. September 2004 - FOD
Waterfall Route
18:28 Peter Coward, Steve Schneider, and Hans Florine. October 1997 - FOD?
Chinese Water Torture
17:15 Lance Allred, Steve Schneider & Scott Stowe
Dark Star
20:09 Scott Cosgrove, Steve Gerberding, and Al Swanson. July 2002 - FOD
East Buttress
2:05 CTC Jason Singer. June 2001, solo
Speed Record For Climbing El Capitan
43 minutes on route, 2:09 -CTC Hans Florine, solo. July 2000
El Capitan Climbing Route
El Capitan Climbing Deaths History
2:and change?CTC! Jason 'Singer' Smith and Miles Smart. fall 99
1:30 Abby Watkins and Hans Florine. Fall 97 ( CTC 3 hours even)
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Speed Record For Climbing El Capitan
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